TLC Controller and Machine |
I still crank up my 16 year old TLC every other day and it just grinds away engraving mainly bulk jobs that are pre-saved and just loaded from a file. I have to admit that to lay out complicated jobs then the EC software is slow, you have to keep switching to view/graphics to see what it looks like, and if it has a complicated logo or script text it can wait for 20 sec's before anything appears on screen. The machine stands me at nothing, so every pence earned is a bonus.
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Well anyone out there reading this will be aware that they have an old machine, I think sales started in July 1988, which initially makes the technology mid eighties. My first machine was bought in 1990. Electronics and computers have moved on tremendously, of this there is no doubt, and so have other engraving machines. But it is a good workhorse and taught me a lot when I started off with computer engravers. Would I recomend a novice engraver to purchase one, yes I would. |
My UK spec controller came with five built in fonts, gothic SL, 5th avenue SL, century 2L, arrows and shapes. but if you want to engrave logos, designs or badges then you will need an artscryb cartridge. The golden rule if you already have this cartridge, is never to remove it with the machine switched on. The working of the artscryb cartridge and the method of converting a Corel Draw file to the file format recognized by a TLC controller (.f) is not one explained easily or quickly. So rather than fill up vast amounts of web space, I will refer you to the Engraving etc forum where the subject was well covered in detail by people far more qualified than myself on the subject. (see links page)
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The built in fonts may have been sufficient in the eighties when the Domiteaux Engraver, as it was then, hit the market, but the arrival of TT fonts and wysiwyg software makes the choice look limited now. I remember having to spend $300 in 1990 for just four extra fonts. It is possible to import a font as a .f file but that involves having to convert a TT font using font editor software. For the novice starter, do not worry about just having these fonts, it is enough to get you started, whether working with a cutter on plastic nameplates, or a diamond on trophy plates |
Apart from that, I just make sure the controller gets lots of love and attention, every year I take the top off and blow the dust out. Take every fuse and electrical connection apart, clean with a wire brush then alcohol cleaner. I am careful not to let it overheat. One tip that is useful regards the electrical leads. The electrical connections are flimsy, so I suggest wrapping tape and tie straps around them to ensure a good connection, it also stops them being ripped off if you snag the wires |
I run both TLC controllers from a single W98 computer via a 'T Switch" It is pointless having a gizmo XP computer as the TLC's run in MS Dos and like to run at a slow clock speed. I once had problems with the computer failing to communicate with the controller Caused by a new computer having too fast a clock speed, upgrading to the last version of ec (v 1.292) solved this problem. Switching from one machine to another using the switch means you have to press Ctrl C to boot the second controller. |
So you are a novice engraver, or perhaps someone who fancies a go at engraving and has found an old TLC engraving machine for sale, you are pondering the situation? Well if you can see the machine running, and it does not appear to have problems that are obvious to the eye, I would say go for it. I cannot comment on prices as I don't live in the USA, but I assume it will be fairly low due to its age. If you are buying unseen e.g. E Bay, then there is an element of buyer beware, but I would still take a chance. If you buy it and the controller doesn't work, then all is not lost, as you can buy 'off the shelf' controllers that would work with the TLC flatbed. If your new flatbed unit has movement on the engraving table then do not despair, see the flatbed page for details |
The workshop manual was very average in my view, ok, so I am the first to admit my computer knowledge was not good in 1990. But I have been back to it on odd occasions to check something out, and it is still hard going, e.g. formating circular text. Most people are ok with windows software, but throw MS Dos at em and they can start to wobble a bit. If you buy a machine without the book, do not get overconcerned, you will survive. |
Does the controller have any bugs or problems, well just two come to mind immediately. Firstly, the joystick controller was always a weak point, both controllers started to play up with this function within 18 months of purchase. I seem to remember having them replaced under warranty, but it is a weak point. One has stopped working altogether, so I have to move that machine by hand. I do know other users have the same problem, perhaps a replacement or alternative is available I do not know about. So if your machine has this problem, you are not alone.Secondly, the machine has a habit of failing to move back to 'home' on job completion, but only on certain jobs, this happens when a logo or design has a lot of cross hatching.
What about replacement controllers, people offer these as an alternative and they fall into two categories, firstly those magic controllers that somehow connect a computer to a stepper motor with any electronics, drivers or boards. I take these with a pinch of salt, if the idea was that good, why didn't the original manufacturer do it? Some people support the idea, the majority do not. Moving on to replacement controllers, there are now quite a few on the market and these have to be researched but there is no reason why such an item should not be considered
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The position can either be 'x' or 'y' axis and the amount is sometimes only small perhaps .5mm but that means after 6 items the machine is 3mm out. On some small jobs where the size / placement is critical, that can be very noticeable, the problem is quite easily overcome. Remove the cover on the front left of the machine to expose the knurled nut (I would remove it anyway, makes it easier to maneuver the machine). Find exact 'home' then mark this nut with a marker pen, do likewise with the plastic knob on the right of the machine (on the end of the lead screw). Check every 3 or 4 passes, if the machines strays from home, it is simple to move it back using the marks.
What about worn out machines, can they be restored, yes, no problem. If the machine has been used without the drive motor, i.e. no cutters / swarf, then wear and tear on the lead screws will be minimal. If not, then replacement screws and nuts are available as a kit from NH in Toldeo and are quite easy to install with some due diligence and care. The stepper motors and wiring seem to present no specific problems that I am aware of. |
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